(3.)
It may be here mentioned that when General Grant, the ex-President of the United States, visited China in 1879 he said that, in his tour round the world, he had seen only four really great men, viz., Disraeli, Gambetta, Bismarck and Li-Hung Chang and that he was inclined to consider the latter, the Chinese Statesman and General, the greatest of the four, especially taking into account his inferior opportunities of education in his early days.
The stay at Tientsin lasted three or four days, and then His Excellency, in company with Sir Harry Parkes, the two Misses Parkes, and Mr Grosvenor, the Secretary of Legation, left for Tung-chow in house-boats towed by the Viceroy's steamers. The country was compared by His Excellency with the delta of Egypt, the mud-built dwellings, and the general aspect of the country, subject to periodical inundations, giving an Egyptian appearance to the scenery. From Tung-chow the party rode to Peking, a distance of fifteen miles.
At Peking Sir G. Bowen was received in state at the Tsung-li Yamen, or Foreign Office, by the Ministers, and high officials who govern China in the name of the Emperor, a boy of 14 who has never yet been seen by Europeans. Prince King, the President and uncle of the Emperor sent a message to Sir George stating that in consequence of the death of one of his wives, the night before, he regretted he was unable to return His Excellency's visit immediately. The Prince sent Sir George, however, a magnificent dinner, which is the highest mark of Chinese respect. Twelve huge coolies staggered into the hall of the Legation, each bearing a covered tray. When the lid was taken off each of the trays there was a separate course inside of soups, fish, game, pastry, fruits &c. With this dinner were also sent two large jars of wine from the Prince's cellars.
His Excellency visited the many places of interest in Peking, and got admission to the Temple of Heaven, the "Holy of Holies" of China. His Excellency was particularly impressed by his visit to this celebrated temple. It is situated in an enclosure which occupies one corner of the Chinese city, and is about the size of Hyde Park. This park is planted with fine trees. In this temple, His Excellency remarked that there are no idols; only the Supreme Being is worshipped there; for once a year the Emperor offers up burnt offerings in it to the same God of Heaven who was similarly worshipped by Abraham in the wilderness. The following description of this noteworthy temple and the ceremonies performed in it, is taken from the Guide for tourists to Peking and its environs, Issued from the China Mail office in 1876. This grand establishment originated in ancient times; although the present buildings owe their construction to the emperors of the Ming dynasty, yet it cannot be doubted that an altar of heaven existed on this place in much earlier times. A high brick wall surrounds a well-kept park, with old trees; within this enclosure, covering more than one square mile, is a second one, which again is divided by walls into several compartments. Close to the entrance of the inner enclosure is the Chai-kung, or palace of abstinence--where the Emperor has to pass the night preceding the sacrifices in watching and meditation, a fine modern building. South-east to it is the altar, a beautiful white marble structure, ascended by twenty-seven steps and ornamented by circular balustrades on each of its three terraces; it has a diameter of about 100 feet. On the south-east of it stands, at a short distance, the large furnace for the whole burnt-offering; it is faced with green glazed tiles and is nine feet high. It contains an iron grating on which a bullock is placed at the time of the sacrifice; the remaining charred bones are generally to be seen within it. Outside there is a pit for the blood and hair. On the south-west of the altar there are three high poles for hanging lanterns, which give illumination to the sacrifice, as it is performed before dawn. North
(4.)
of the altar is another of somewhat smaller dimensions, called the Ch'i-ku-t'an, or altar for prayers on behalf of the harvest, On it is raised a magnificent triple-roofed circular temple, ninety-feet in height, which constitutes the most conspicuous object in the whole enclosure. It is seen from many points of the city and its environs, and that which is generally called by foreigners the Temple of Heaven. Before the last century the three roofs were covered with blue, yellow and green tiles, but by Kienlung these colours were all changed to blue. In the interior large shrines of carved wood. The windows are shaded by Venetians made of thin blue glass beads strung together; they are produced at the glass factories in Shan-tung, also, as at the great south altar, are seen on the south-east the green furnace for the bullock, and besides eight iron urns, in which the other offerings, consisting of silk, cloth, grain, &c., are burnt. On the east is a winding passage or cloister of 72 compartments of 10 feet each = 720 feet in length, leading to the slaughter-house. At the latter there is a very deep well, famous for its good water, an object worth mentioning in Peking. Besides those buildings there are two halls at the back of each altar, also covered with blue glazed tiles.
The worship of the Tien, Heaven, or Shang-ti, Supreme Ruler, is the most important of all the state observances in China, and constitutes a most interesting remnant of the ancient monotheistic cultus which prevailed in China before the rationalism of the Confucianists and the polytheistic superstition of Buddhism predominated. There are no images of any kind in the temple, and the offering of whole burnt bullocks strikingly reminds us of the ancient custom of Western religious, as that of the Hebrews and the Greeks. The ceremonies of the sacrifices are kept with the utmost severity and are of a very complicated nature. The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. On the 20th day of December the offerings and an elephant carriage are sent with great array to the temple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a sedan chair, covered with yellow silk and carried by thirty-two men; he is preceded by a band of musicians and followed by an immense number of followers, including the princes, high officials, &c., all on horseback. Having arrived at the Temple, the Emperor offers incense to Heaven and to his ancestors and inspects the offerings; then he is conveyed on the elephant carriage to the Palace of Abstinence, where he is not allowed to take any animal food or wine, nor to sleep. Next morning, seven quarters before sunrise, he puts on his sacrificial robes and goes to the southern gate of the outer enclosure, dismounts from the carriage and walks to the great altar, where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on the second terrace.
At the moment he arrives at the spot where he kneels, the fire of the sacrifice is kindled and music is heard. The Emperor then proceeds to the upper terrace of the altar, kneels and burns incense before Heaven and also presents incense to his ancestors. Then he makes three genuflections and one prostration and offers bundles of silk, jade cups and other gifts, music being heard all the time. Afterwards he kneels at another point of the altar, where an officer reads a prayer aloud. At last he receives, kneeling, the "cup of happiness" and the "flesh of happiness." With the first dawn the whole party returns to the palace. Foreigners, who watched the party when passing the Chien-men from the city wall, speak highly of the splendid appearance of the whole procession; hundreds of officials in brilliant robes of state and numberless followers on horseback, among them a company of the Imperial Life Guards.
A similar sacrifice takes place at spring solstice, with the same ceremonies, at the northern altar, but the motive is the special prayer for a prosperous harvest, Whilst the winter sacrifice is offered for a blessing upon the whole empire.
On his first arrival in Peking, Sir G. Bowen was entertained most hospitably by Sir
(5.)
Robert Hart, for four days, after which Sir George made his journey to the Great Wall. On returning from this trip His Excellency stayed with Sir Harry Parkes at the British Legation. His Excellency did the trip to the Great Wall in four days, but he would strongly recommend those not pressed for time to spend six over it. One can either ride on horse-back, or go in a mule litter, on this journey. His Excellency rode most of the way,
Or
Leaving Peking, His Excellency proceeded to Nan-kou, a distance of 30 miles where he slept. During the night a thief stole his shooting jacket, with one or two articles in the pockets. Fortunately the Governor was provided with a change of raiment, so that the theft caused little inconvenience. His note-book was, however, unfortunately in one of the pockets, and its loss was deplored because it contained the notes of his journey. Sir George may console himself with the reflection that this theft was one that might occur in many inns in England. Nan-kou is a fortified, busy little town situated at the entrance of a long, picturesque valley, stretching to the N.N.W., and is the farthest outpost of a series of fortifications which defend the very important Nan-kou pass leading to the Great Wall. From Nan-kou, Sir George proceeded on the following day to the Pa-ta-ling gate in the Great Wall, a distance from Nan-kou of about fifteen miles,
The Governor returned to Nan-kou the same day. Nothing could be worse than the present state of the roads, but they and their surroundings afforded ample proof that in ages past this part of China could boast of magnificent highways, bridges and other structures. Nothing can be more impressive than the sight of the Great Wall stretching along the crest of a high mountain-ridge for 2000 miles. The same general decay is visible in modern China as in modern Turkey.
The next day His Excellency visited the Tombs of the Emperors of the Ming dynasty, proceeding to the village of Sha-ho to sleep. This was a heavy day's riding for a man of the Governor's age, but he said he stood it almost as well as when he rode across European Turkey from Constantinople to Corfu, in 1849, when he was only 28 years old. Sir George was deeply interested in the spectacle of the Ming Tombs, with their solid white marble gateways, the famous gigantic stone tortoises, the long avenue of colossal elephants, camels, horses, sages, and warriors, cut in sandstone, the marble terraces and staircases, the noble hall, and the grand amphitheatre of mountains around.
After sleeping at Sha-ho, His Excellency, on the following day, visited the ruins of the Summer Palace and other places of interest in the neighbourhood, especially the Bell Temple, containing the third largest bell in the world. He returned to Peking the same evening,
On his return to Peking His Excellency stayed at the British Legation, where he fully discussed with Sir Harry Parkes the questions affecting the Government of Hongkong in its relations with China. The so-called blockade of Hongkong was found to be rather a difficult subject to deal with, and any definite action in regard to it was postponed until Sir Harry Parkes' visit to Hongkong, which will take place in March next. Then it will be further discussed, and the matter in due course of time will be laid before the Legislative Council His Excellency remained with Sir Harry Parkes at the British Legation about a week,
The voyage down the Peiho was much more rapid than that up, thanks to the strong current. Only a brief stay was made at Tientsin and Shanghai on the return journey, and Hongkong was reached, after an absence from the Colony of about seven weeks, on the 24th inst. During the whole time, the weather was very fine, and the temperature delicious, like that of the autumn in Italy.
Enclosure
163
Ten Chinese Met hus 1o-day a well-written Wa Tsz-yue
article extolling Li Hung-chang for the reception he gave to Sir George Bowen with the French and British Ministers. It begins by quoting the words of Mencius: "It requires a benevolent prince to be able with a great country to serve a small one. And it requires a wise prince to be able with a small country to serve a large one." Of Sir George it says: "We have in His Excellency a Colonial Governor, lenient and loyal. Already within the first year of his administration in Hongkong, in the social circle, easy and self-possessed, he has spoken monumental words of wisdom; in the line of enterprise, undaunted by hardship, he has explored the Great Wall, and in his official capacity, zealous and painstaking, he has worthily borne his part in international counsels. Truly our Governor possesses qualities which command the imitation of all his people and the respect of all his neighbours."
4
(3.)
It may be hore mentioned that when General Grant, the ex-President of the United States, visited China in 1879 he said that, in his tour round the world, he had seen only four really great men, viz., Disraeli, Gambetta, Bismarck and Li-Hung Chang and that he was inclined to consi der the latter,-the Chinese Statesmen and General, the greatest of the four, espe- cially taking into account his inferior op- portunities of education in his early days.
The stay at Tientsin lasted three or four days, and then His Excellency, in company with Sir Harry Parkes, the two Misses Parkes, and Mr Grosvenor, the Saoretury of Logation, left for Tung-chow in house-boats towed by the Viceroy's steamers. The country was compared by His Excellency with the delta of Egypt, the mud-built dwellings, and the general aspect of the ouun- try, subject to periodigal inundations, giving an Egyptian appearance to the scenery. From Tung-chow the party rode to Poking, a distance of fifteen miles.
At Peking Sir G. Bowen was received in state at the Tsung-li Yamen, or Foreign Office, by the Ministers, and high officials who govern China in the name of the Emperor, a boy of 14 who has uover yet been seen by Europeans. Prince King, the President and uncle of the Emperor sent a message to Sir George stating that in consequence of the death of one of his wives, the night before. he regretted he was unable to returu His Excellency's visit iramediately. The Prince Bent Sir George, however,
is magnificent dinner, which highest mark of Chinese respect. Twelve huge coolies staggered into the ball of the Legation, each bearing a covered tray. When the lid was taken off each of the trays there was a separate course inside of soups, fish, game, pastry, fruits &o. With this dinner were also sent two large jars of wine from the Prince's cellars.
#
the
"
His Excelleney visited the many places of interest in Peking, and got admission to the Temple of Hearen, the Holy of Holies" of China. His Excellency was par- ticularly impressed by his visit to this ce- lebrated temple. It is situated in an en- closure which occupies one corner of the Chi- nese city, and is about the size of Hyde Park. This park is planted with fine trees. In this tempic, His Excellency remarked that there are no idols; only the Supreme Being is worshipped there; for once a year the Emperor offers up burnt offerings in it to the same God of Heaven who was similarly worshipped by Abraham in the wilderness. The following description of this noteworthy temple and the ceremonies performed in it, is taken from the Guide for tourists to Peking and its environs, Issued from the China Mail office in 1876- This grand establishment originated in ancient times; although the present build- ings owe their construction to the emperors of the Ming dynasty, yet it cannot be doubted that an altar of heaven existed on this place in unch earlier times. A high brick wall surrounds a well-kept park, with old treea; within this enclosure, covering more than one square mile, is a second one, which again is divided by walls into several compartments. Close to the entrance of the inner enclosure is the Chai-kung, or pa- lace of abstinence--where the Emperor hus to pass the night preceding the sacrifices in watching and meditation, a fine modern building. South-east to it is the altar, a beautiful white marble structure, ascended by twenty-seven steps and ornamented by circular balustrades on each of ita three ter races; it has a diameter of about 100 feet. On the south-east of it stands, at a short distance, the large furnace for the whole burnt-offering; it is faced with green glazed! tiles and is nine feet high. It contains an iron grating on which a bullock is placed at tho time of the sacrifice; the remaining charred bones are generally to be seen with in it. Outside there is a pit for the blood and hair. On the south-west of the altar there are three high poles for hanging lan- terns, which give illumination to the sacri- tice, as it is performed before dawn. North
(4.)
of the altar is another of somewhat staller dimensions, called the Ch'i-ku-t'an, or altar for prayers on behalf of the harvest, On it is raised a magnificent triple-roofed circular temple, ninety-feet in height, which consti- tutes the most conspicuous object in the whole enclosure. It is seen from many points of the city and its environs, and that which is generally called by foreigners the Temple of Heaven. Before the last con- tury the three roofs were covered with blue, yellow and green tiles, but by Kienlung these colours were all changed to blue. In the interior large shrines of carved wood The windows are contain holy tablets. shaded by venetians made of thin blue glass beads strung together; they are produced at Here the glass factories in Shan-tung, also, as at the great south altar, are seen on the south-east the green furnace for the bullock, and besides eight iron urns, in which the other offerings, consisting of silk, cloth, grain, &c., are burnt. On the east is a winding passage or cloister of 72 com- partments of 10 feet each=-720 fect in length, leading to the slaughter-house. At the latter there is a very deep well, famous for its good water, an object worth men tioning in Peking. Besides those buildings there are two halls at the back of each al- tar, also covered with blue glazed tiles.
The worship of the Tien, Heaven, or Shang-ti, Supreme Ruler, is the most in- portant of all the state observances in Chi- na, and constitutes a most interesting rem- nant of the ancient monotheistig cultus which prevailed in China before the ra tionalism of the Confucianists and the poly- theis io superstition of Buddhismu predomin ated. There are no images of any kind in the temple, and the offering of whole burnt bullocks strikingly reminds us of the au- cient enstom of Westeru religious, as that, of the Hebrews and the Greeks. The cere monies of the sacrifices are kept with the utmost severity and are of a very com- plicated nature. The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. Ou the 20th day of December the offerings and an elephant car- riage are sent with great array to the tem- ple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a sedan chair, covered with yellow silk and carried by thirty-two uen; he is preceded by a band of ncsicians and followed by an immense number of followers, including the princes, high officials, &c., all on horse- back. Having arrived at the Temple, the Emperor offers incense to Heaven and to his ancestors and inspects the offerin a then he is conveyed on the elephant car riago to the Palace of Abstinence, where he is not allowed to take any animal food or wine, nor to sleep. Next morning, seven quarters before sunrise, he puts on his sacrificial robes and goes to the southern gare of the outer enclosure, dismounts from the carriage and walks to the great altar, where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on the second terrace,
At the moment he arrives at the spot where he kneels, the fire of the sacrifice is kindled and music is heard. The Em poror thon proceeds to the upper terrace of the the altar, kneels and burns inconse before Heaven and alau presenta inconse to his ancestors. Then he makes three genuflections and one prostration and of fers bundles of silk, jade cups and other Af- gifts, uusic being heard all the time. terwards he kneels at another point of the altar, where an officer reads a prayer alond. At last he receives, kneeling, the cup of happiness" and the "flesh of happiness." With the first dawn the wliolo party returns to the palace. Fo- reigners, who watched the party when passing the Chien-nen from the city wall, speak highly of the splendid appearance of the whole procession; hundreds of otheials iu brilliant robes of state and numberless followers on horseback, among them a company of the Imperial Life Guards.
A similar sacrifice takes place at spring solstice, with the same caromonies, at the northern altar, but the motive is the special prayer for a prosperous harvest, Whilst the winter sacrifice is offered for a blessing upon the whole empire.
On histirst arrival in Peking, Sir G. Bowen was entertained most hospitably by Sir
(5.)
Robert Hart, for four days, after which Sir George made his journey to the Great Wall. On returning from this trip His Excellency stayed with Sir Harry Parkes at the British Legation. His Excellency did the trip to the Great Wall in four days, but he uld strongly recommend those not press- ed for time to spend six over it. One cau either ride on horse-back, or go in a mule litter, on this journey. His Excellency rode must of the way,
Or
Leaving Peking, His Excellency proceeded to Nan-kou,a distance of 30 miles where he slept. During the night a thief stole his shooting jacket, with one two articles in the pockets. Fortunately the Governor was provided with a change of raiment, so that the theft caused little inconvenience. His note-book was, how- ever, unfortunately in one of the puckets, and its loss was deplored because it contained the notes of his journey. Sir George may con- sole himself with the reflection that this theft was one that might occur in many inns in England. Nan-kon is a fortified, busy little town situated at the extrance of a long, picturesque valley, stretching to the N.N.W., and is the farthest outpost of a series of fortifications which defend the very important Nan-kou pass leading to the Great Wall. From Nan-kun, Sir George proceeded on the following day to the Pa- ta-ling gate in the Great Wall, a distance from Nan-kou of about fifteen miles,
The fovernor returned to Nan-kou the same day. Nothing could be worse than the present state of the roads, but they and their surroundings afforded ample proof that in ages past this part of China" could boast of magnificent highways, bridges and other structures. Nothing can be more impres sive than the sight of the Great Wall stretching along the crest of a high moan- tain-ridge for 2000 miles. The saine general decay is visible in modern China as in mo- dern Turkey.
The next day His Excellency visited the Tombs of the Emperors of the Ming dynasty, proceeding to the village of Sha-ho to sleep. This was a heavy day's riding for a man of the Governor's age, but he said he stood it almost as well as when be rode across European Turkey! from Constantinople to Corfu, in 1849, when he was only 28 years old. Sir George was deeply interested in the spectacle of the Ming Tombs, with their solid white marble gateways, the famous gigantic stone tor- toiae, the long avenue of colossal cle- phants, camels, horses, sages, and warriors, cnt in sandstone, the marble terraces and staircases, the noble hall, and the grand amphitheatre of mountains around.
After sleeping at Sha-ho, His Excellency, on the following day, visited the ruins of the Summer Palace and other places of interest in the neighbourhood, especially the Bell Temple, containing the third largest bell in the world. He returned to Peking the same evening,
On his return to Peking His Excellency stayed at the British Legation, where he fully discussed with Sir Harry Parkes the questions affecting the Government of Hongkong in its relations with Chins. The so-called blockade of Hongkong was found to be rather a difficult subject to deal with, and any definite action in regard to it was postponed until Sir Harry Parkes visit to Hongkong, which will take place
in March next.
Then it will be further discossed, and the matter in due course of time will be laid before the Legislative Council His Excellency remained with Sir Harry Parkes at the British Legation about a week,
The voyage down the Pello was much more rapid "than that up, thanks to the atrong current. Only a brief stay was made at Tientsin and Shanghai on the re- turn journey, and Hongkong was reached, after an absence from the Colony of about seven weeks, on the 24th inst. During the whole time, the weather was very fine, and the temperature delicious, like that of the autumn in Italy.
Endlosur
163
Ten Chinest Met hus 1o-day a well writen Wa Tszgat
article extolling Li Hung-chang for the roception he gave to Sir George Bowen with the French and British Ministers. It begins by quoting the words of Mencins→ "It requires a benevolent prince to be able with a great country to serve a small one. And it requires a wise prince to be able with a small country to serve a large one." Of Sir George it says: "We have in His Excellency a Colonial Governor, lenient and loyal. Already within the first year of his administration in Hongkong, in the social circle, easy and self possessed, he has spoken monumental words of wisdom; in the line of enterprise, undaunted by hard- ship, he has explored the Great Wall, and in his official capacity, zealous and pains. taking, he has worthily borne his part in international counsels. Truly our Gover nor possesses qualities which command the imitation of all his people and the respect of all his neighbours."
4
Po
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